De Anza College 17th and 18th Centuries Suits Discussion Instructions Focus on the suit by finding historical examples and recent fashion examples. Your

De Anza College 17th and 18th Centuries Suits Discussion Instructions

Focus on the suit by finding historical examples and recent fashion examples.

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Your entry should meet the following requirements:

Include two images of key fashion moments from historical sources.
Include two images of current fashion obtained from current sources. Current fashions should be from the late-20th and 21st centuries.
Include a short caption under each image to identify and describe each example, using course vocabulary and concepts from this module.
Cite all research sources.
Submit all entries in JPEG format. 7/6/2020
FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
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FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
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Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
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FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
Introduction
In this module, we will continue to explore the suit as a key fashion moment by examining
forms of dress. As we discussed in the previous module, the suit of clothes for a man
developed out of the gendered system of dress established in the Middle Ages.
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries in the courts of Europe, the suit functioned as a
symbol of male status, the “uniform” of power and prestige. Following the French,
American, and Industrial revolutions, the suit underwent the changes required to meet the
challenges of the new industrial age. It was adopted by women of all classes as the “tailor
made,” which provided freedom and function, largely absent from women’s fashionable
dress until the late-19th century.
Student Outcomes
Analyze key fashion moments in the development of the suit in western dress, with
the goal of identifying the origin of recent looks.
Recognize revivals and reinterpretations of historic forms of dress in current fashion
and design.
Research historic sources to find images of the suit, and identify connections
between historic fashion and present fashion.
?
Attention
The Resources site provides important information you will need to navigate this course:
Online Orientation
Research, Writing, and Plagiarism
Grading Policy and Evaluation
The Fashion Resource Book
Key Concepts and Vocabulary
Sphere of Influence
This link will be available as a reference throughout the semester.
Once you have read the material in each of these sections, let’s continue with the Sphere
of Influence and the next key moment in fashion history!
Graded Topics
After reading this module you will complete the following:
5.1 [Assignments] Fashion Resource Book
Discussion
Class participation in the Discussion is required and makes up a significant part of your
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learning experience. Click on the Discussion link in the top toolbar to enter the
Discussion.
Progress Questions, Quizzes, and Exams
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You must answer all Progress Questions before proceeding to the following module’s
content. If this module contains quizzes or exams, these links will be listed on the Outline
page.
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FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
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Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
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FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The First Unified “Suit of Clothes” for a Man
During the 1610s, a new, streamlined style of dress was adopted by men, consisting of a
doublet and a pair of large, loose, knee-length breeches. Breeches are comparable to
modern-day pants, consisting of two pant legs joined by a seam in the middle, eliminating
the need for a codpiece. However, the breeches were worn fastened to a doublet with
ties, a construction retained from medieval dress.
This coordinated doublet and breeches, always made out of the same cloth, formed the
first unified suit of clothes for men, the forerunner to the suit. Hose, in the form of knit
stockings, were secured with garters above the knee.
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
1
Description
2
3
4
James Hamilton, 1631, wearing a silver silk paned doublet and breeches decorated in silver braid, a lace
collar, leather boots, and gloves
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
Search Course
GO!
Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
? Back
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FEEDBACK
FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The First Unified “Suit of Clothes” for a Man
During the 1610s, a new, streamlined style of dress was adopted by men, consisting of a
doublet and a pair of large, loose, knee-length breeches. Breeches are comparable to
modern-day pants, consisting of two pant legs joined by a seam in the middle, eliminating
the need for a codpiece. However, the breeches were worn fastened to a doublet with
ties, a construction retained from medieval dress.
This coordinated doublet and breeches, always made out of the same cloth, formed the
first unified suit of clothes for men, the forerunner to the suit. Hose, in the form of knit
stockings, were secured with garters above the knee.
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
1
Description
2
3
4
Extant doublet and breeches, circa 1630, made of pinked silver satin
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
Search Course
GO!
Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
? Back
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Next ?
FEEDBACK
FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The First Unified “Suit of Clothes” for a Man
During the 1610s, a new, streamlined style of dress was adopted by men, consisting of a
doublet and a pair of large, loose, knee-length breeches. Breeches are comparable to
modern-day pants, consisting of two pant legs joined by a seam in the middle, eliminating
the need for a codpiece. However, the breeches were worn fastened to a doublet with
ties, a construction retained from medieval dress.
This coordinated doublet and breeches, always made out of the same cloth, formed the
first unified suit of clothes for men, the forerunner to the suit. Hose, in the form of knit
stockings, were secured with garters above the knee.
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
1
Description
2
3
4
Two men, 1638, wearing looser doublets of the late 1630s
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Section:
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
Search Course
GO!
Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
? Back
2 of 13
Next ?
FEEDBACK
FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The First Unified “Suit of Clothes” for a Man
During the 1610s, a new, streamlined style of dress was adopted by men, consisting of a
doublet and a pair of large, loose, knee-length breeches. Breeches are comparable to
modern-day pants, consisting of two pant legs joined by a seam in the middle, eliminating
the need for a codpiece. However, the breeches were worn fastened to a doublet with
ties, a construction retained from medieval dress.
This coordinated doublet and breeches, always made out of the same cloth, formed the
first unified suit of clothes for men, the forerunner to the suit. Hose, in the form of knit
stockings, were secured with garters above the knee.
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
1
Description
2
3
4
Ensembles belonging to Charles X of Sweden, 1654. All outfits comprise a short doublet, wide-legged
breeches, and a cloak. The breeches have fashionable looped ribbon trims at the waistline and hem.
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
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Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
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Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
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MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The Justaucorps
Additional innovations were made to the unified suit of clothes in the French Court of King
Louis XIV. The doublet and breeches were replaced with a new suit of clothes, originating
from military attire. This ensemble consisted of a long-sleeved jacket called a justaucorps,
tailored closely to the body, worn open over a sleeved waistcoat. These items were worn
with a coordinating pair of loose breeches, a frilled shirt, and a long linen tie called a
cravat—a new style of neckwear adopted from military dress. This new suit of clothes
was required dress for all courtiers and members of the Court of Versailles.
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
Fashion plate of a French nobleman, 1687, wearing a white
linen shirt and a blue justaucorps reaching to the knees.
Though not visible, he wears a sleeved waistcoat and kneelength breeches under the justaucorps. He accessorizes with a
lace-trimmed cravat and gloves.
Wool justaucorps and breeches completely covered in silver
embroidery. Worn by the brother of Charles II, James of York,
to marry Mary of Modena, 1673.
In 1666, Charles II decreed his intention to make a justaucorps suit of English wool the
official attire for male members of his court and government officials. It is possible that
Charles II was inspired by his French tailors, who returned with him from his exile in
France. Samuel Pepys, the 17th-century English diarist, wrote on October 18, 1666, “This
day the king begins to put on his vest being a long cassocke close to the body and a coat
over it, and the legs ruffed with black riband like a pigeon’s leg. It is a very fine, handsome
garment.” By the 1680s, the justaucorps suit was worn by men as everyday attire.
Beginning of the Suit: The Vest
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Beginning of the Suit: The Vest
FEEDBACK
Introduced to the English court by Charles II in 1666, the prototype of the three-piece suit
consisted of a below-the-knee coat, a vest of the same length worn over a shirt, and
narrow breeches. The vest is thought to be oriental in origin. This became the basic
components of men’s dress in England and France by 1680.
Louis XIV (seated) and his family, 1710. All men wear court attire, consisting of a justaucorps, waistcoat, and breeches, made of
French silk.
At the court of Louis XIV, the justaucorps suit was adopted as formal court attire for men.
Etiquette stipulated that all elements—the justaucorps, waistcoat, and breeches—be
made of French silk. The cravat and shirt sleeves were required to be trimmed with
French lace.
Throughout the late 17th century and the early 18th century, the fit of the justaucorps
evolved. By 1690, it was extremely fitted in the torso, flaring dramatically at the knee. By
1710, it had extremely deep, wide cuffs. However, despite this evolution, the essential
elements remained the same—the suit still comprised a justaucorps, sleeved waistcoat,
and breeches.
Engraving of Louis XIV’s brother, 1698, showing the latest
fashion for men. He wears a brocade waistcoat and a large,
open justaucorps with breeches and tight stockings. His highheeled shoes close with metal buckles. He demonstrates the
fashionable posture of standing, with one foot turned out and
slightly forward
Fashion plate, 1688, a man in a justacorp assuming the
fashionable stance
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
Search Course
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
GO!
Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
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FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The Riding Habit
In the late 17th century, fashionable women adopted specialized clothing for horseback
riding for the first time. Women looked to men’s riding clothes, adopting a fitted jacket in
the style of a justaucorps and a waistcoat. These items were paired with a long skirt,
men’s-style shirt and cravat, and even a tricorne hat—the riding habit was born.
The riding habit is significant in fashion history for two reasons. It marks the first item of
sportswear garments worn specifically for sporting activities for women. It is also the first
tailored garment for women; it was modeled on the justaucorps and was made by tailors,
not seamstresses. In effect, the riding habit is the first “suit” for women.
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. Coat, Waistcoat, Pantaloons
The riding habit was relatively comfortable and easy to wear. The habit was usually made
of a practical, durable material like wool, and the shorter skirt made walking easier. Many
women wore their habits for any sort of rigorous activity such as distance travel by coach,
hunting, or country walks.
10. Black Suit
11. Lounge/Sack Suit
12. Thom Browne
13. Conclusion
1
Title
2
3
Portrait of a woman, 1745, in a blue wool riding habit decorated in gold braid
Riding habits continued to be worn throughout the 19th century. Although the riding habit
was always made by a tailor, it still followed the basic fashionable line; in the 1840s, this
included a low-waisted bodice and full skirt. At this time, women were required by
etiquette to ride sidesaddle, and skirts were cut excessively long on one side to cover the
legs completely while on the mount. Riding habits were fashioned in dark wools in brown,
green, blue, and black and featured masculine details like braids, coat collars, and
buttons. Many women completed the look with a masculine cravat and top hat.
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1
Description
2
3
Marie Antoinette at the age of 16, 1771, posing in her red velvet riding habit
In the 1780s, a fashionable version of the riding habit called a “redingote” emerged in
Paris. The redingote was similar in cut to the robe à l’Anglaise with its fitted back, but it
had a jaunty buttoned front and wide lapels modeled after the justaucorps. Highly
fashionable from 1785 to 1790, the redingote was a garment of fashion, not sport, and
was worn for informal occasions or country walks.
Violet silk redingote with a white collar, worn with a gauze
petticoat, 1787
Extant silk redingote, 1790
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Section:
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Outline > FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
FSH 244 OL2: HISTORY OF FASHION – CROSS-LISTED AS LA 244 OL2
Search Course

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Pages:
1. Introduction
2. “Suit of Clothes”
3. The Justaucorps
4. The Riding Habit
5. The Tailor-Made
Summer 2020 (Jun 22nd – Aug 12th)
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FSH 244 – OL2: History of Fashion
MODULE 5: THE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURIES/THE SUIT, PART 2
The Tailor-Made
In the 1880s, a new ensemble called the tailor-made was adopted by women. Modeled
on the female riding habit, the tailor-made was essentially a suit for women, comprising a
tailored wool jacket and matching skirt. Made in sober colors like black, navy, and brown,
the tailor-made was quickly adopted by shop girls as a sturdy and practical ensemble that
could withstand everyday wear. By 1890, the tailor-made was the garment of choice for
working women throughout the western world.
6. The 18th-Century Court Suit
7. The French Revolution
8. Overview 1
9. C…
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